In-Between Basic Beanie (Crochet)
Hey, guys! Welcome back to my blog! If you’re new here, WHAT’S UP! Today’s post is a simple one, but a good pattern to have on hand. As an avid crocheter, some of my favorite projects to work on are children’s character beanies.
Recently, I came across a post on Instagram where a fellow crafter was asking for help to find a pattern for a child’s beanie she was working on. She had found a pattern online and ran into the same problem I had come across several times as well. The recommended size did not fit the child for which the hat was ordered. This post inspired to me to write up the pattern I had begun to find was universally fitting those in-between kid sizes (typically ages 5-11).
You’ll notice as you go through the pattern, I’ve added an optional round. While most of the time, I only need to stop increasing after round 6, sometimes I want to add a few more stitches without doing a complete increase round. This optional round (round 7) will provide you with 5 extra stitches. It’s most useful when a yarn is labeled size 4, but is crocheting tighter than usual. The optional round is also good to use if you know you’re going to be sewing on a lot of extra details. For example, I think most of us have been so proud of the way a character’s face came together on a hat, but the beanie was too fitted and stretched that the face became unrecognizable once the child put it on. At least, I know I’ve been there!
Let me know on Instagram (@i_can_knot_even) if you use this pattern and it works for you and please feel free to sell any hats you make using this pattern!
I hope this post saves a few of you the same disappointment I’ve experienced in the past after finishing a project. On that note, let’s get started!
In Between Basic Children’s Beanie (Optional Ear flaps)
· Worsted weight yarn
· 5mm crochet hook
· 4 stitch markers
· Yarn needle
· CH- chain
· DC- double crochet
· SL ST- slip stitch
· SC- single crochet
· CH 2 at the beginning of rounds never counts as a stitch
· This pattern is designed to have a seam in the back, but can be worked continuously in the round to avoid seams.
Round 1: In the 3rd CH from the hook, 10 DC. SL ST into the top of the 1st DC.
Round 2: CH 2. In the first stitch, 2 DC. 2 DC in every stitch around. SL ST to the top of 1st DC (20).
Round 3: CH 2. In the first stitch, 1 DC. In the next stitch, 2 DC. Follow the pattern for the entire round, increasing every other stitch. SL ST to the top of 1st DC (30).
Round 4: CH 2. In the first 2 stitches, 1 DC. In the next stitch 2 DC. Follow the pattern for the entire round, increasing every 3rd stitch. SL ST to the top of 1st DC (40).
Round 5: CH 2. In the first 3 stitches, 1 DC. In the next stitch, 2 DC. Follow the pattern for the entire round, increasing every 4th stitch. SL ST into the top of the 1st DC (50).
Round 6: CH 2. In the first 4 stitches, 1 DC. In the next stitch, 2 DC. Follow the pattern for the entire round, increasing every 5th stitch. SL ST into the top of the 1st DC (60).
** OPTIONAL ROUND**Round 7: CH 2. In the first 11 stitches, 1 DC. In the next stitch, 2 DC. Follow the pattern for the entire round, increasing every 12th stitch. SL ST into the top of 1st DC (65).
Round 8- 14 (**15**) : CH2. Place 1 DC in every stitch around. SL ST into the top of the first DC (60 **65**). Tie off at the end of the last round.
NOTE: As you decrease towards the end of the ear flap, you will NOT chain at the beginning of each row. This helps give the flaps a rounded appearance.
Lay your beanie flat with the seam placed in the back. From the folded edge on the left, count out six stitches towards the middle of the front of your hat and place a stitch marker in the 6th stitch. This will mark where your ear flap is visible from the front. Next, using the folded edge on the left again, count six stitches in the opposite direction (towards the back side of your hat) and place your stitch marker in the 6th stitch. This represents the 12 stitches in which you will be working one ear flap. Repeat the process on the right side of your hat.
Next, open up your hat and pick a side to begin working on. You will now only be crocheting on one side of the hat at a time to create the ear flaps!
Row 1: Create a slip knot and insert your hook. Attach this new working yarn in the marked in stitch that feels natural for the direction you crochet (for me, this is working right to left) with a SL ST. CH 2 (this counts as a DC). DC in the next 11 stitches. Your last DC should be in the stitch marker designated to represent the end of your ear flap. (12 DC).
Row 2: turn your work. CH 2 (this counts as a DC). DC in the next 11 stitches. (12 DC).
Row 3: turn your work. DC the first 2 stitches together. DC in the next 8 stitches. DC the last two stitches together. *Do not forget the last DC from the previous round was the CH 2* (10 DC).
Row 4: turn your work. DC the first 2 stitches together. DC in the next 6 stitches. Dc the last two stitches together. (8 DC).
Row 5: turn your work. DC the first 2 stitches together. DC in the next 4 stitches. DC the last two stitches together (6 DC).
Row 6: turn your work. DC the first 2 stitches together. DC in the next 2 stitches. DC the last two stitches together (4 DC).
Row 7: turn your work. DC the first 2 stitches together. DC the last two stitches together. (2 DC).
Tie off and your first ear flap is complete! Repeat this process on the other side of the hat between the 12 stitches you marked earlier to represent the placement of the second ear flap!
The Last Step:
Create a slip knot and insert the hook. Attach the new piece of yarn near the seam on the back of the hat with a SL ST. SC all the way around the hat to give the ear flaps a finished look. Make sure to hide your tails around the ear flaps in your SC as you work around. Working around the ear flaps can feel a bit awkward, but keep placing the hook where it feels natural and the SC border will pull it all together. SL ST to the top of your first SC, tie off and weave in the ends!
Leave your hat like this, or add rope braids to the end of the ear flaps!